Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2018: Sacai’s mad genius

Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2018: Sacai's mad genius
Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2018: Sacai's mad genius

This is actually the only collection I’ve looked at so far from Pre-Fall 2018, but I’m declaring Sacai the Best of the Best, because what could possibly outdo it? The whole thing is a nutty textile-nerd dreamscape, wherein classic suiting fabrics and buffalo checks and Nordic sweaters have cross-bred into insane hybridized garments so imaginative I wonder what the design team was smoking. While I love the idea of 4 sweaters being smashed into a single garment, I don’t necessarily love or want all of the end results — as much as I admire the vision and creativity on display. But some of it I do want. Badly. Like, I love the floor-length cable-sweater/white-cotton dress (look #31 if the links are wiggy) so much I want to renew my vows just so I can call it my wedding dress. (Definitely with the orange boots.) And I’d love to have the zip-up lopi/suit coat mashup outfit (#32) for my getaway ensemble!

I have no idea where I could ever go in look #20, but I might be trying to figure it out for the rest of my days. I mean …

Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2018: Sacai's mad genius

PREVIOUSLY: Best of Spring 2018

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First of the Best of Spring 2018

First of the Best of Spring 2018

The big-4 Fashion Weeks are currently underway (NY, London, Milan, Paris) and I haven’t seen any of it yet! But Stockholm went first, and I’m crazy about this collection by new-to-me label Totême.  The Spring collections are often my favorite because I find them inspiring for the early fall moment that’s upon us and also interesting for seeing where fashion is headed six months out — how spring builds on the seasons before it. But this particular collection — especially the look up top — actually makes me a little bit nostalgic for my Paris suitcase, and extra excited to wear some of those outfits that either didn’t get worn or have only been worn that week. I believe the pants in the first two photos (looks 15 and 4) are rib knit, and I want them; they look amazing with both of these tops. The red blouse sent me running back to Folkwear’s smock patterns, and I want this exact same scarf in knitted shawl form. (Although my striped sweater serves that purpose beautifully.) The stylized cable sweater (look 7) stays just on the right side of being stylized but not overly gimmicky or trendy, and the entire look below (5) makes my heart race. Overall, amazing silhouettes and so much food for fall wardrobe thought right now.

First of the Best of Spring 2018

PREVIOUSLY: The best of Fall 2017

First of the Best of Fall 2017: Simple shapes and sweaters

First of the Best of Fall 2017: Simple shapes and sweaters

I started to type I’ve begun to think about Fall, but honestly, when am I not thinking about Fall? What I mean is I’ve begun to think in earnest about shapes — especially what shape I want my fisherman to be, and how I want to wear it in the near term. So naturally, I took a stroll through the Fall 2017 shows, which I hadn’t had a chance to do yet, and I am in love with the Elizabeth & James collection — so many lovely intersections of proportion and knitwear to be lingered over. Like the simple red mock-neck with slightly exaggerated skirt, the incredible cardigan-coat in grey and charcoal, and the chic little waffle sweater — the coolest long johns top ever — with narrow black pants. To name just a few.

First of the Best of Fall 2017: Simple shapes and sweaters

PREVIOUSLY: Pre-Fall 2017

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Best of Spring 2017: New York

Best of Spring 2017: New York

I’m trying something a little different this season: looking at the fashion week collections city by city (as I fall inevitably behind). Starting where it starts: New York. The NY Spring 2017 collections are an especially odd hodgepodge this time around — running the gamut from sporty to ’70s psychedelic to goth, with no particular through-line other than an inordinate number of white dresses. I’m into the flirty little cropped fisherman sweater at Tory Burch, intrigued by the space-dyed onesie (or is it a sweater and pants?) under crinoline-like skirts at À Détacher, and puzzled by the three’s-a-trend situation of pullovers with button-up sleeves worn unbuttoned, as seen at A.L.C., Michael Kors and Lacoste. Ok, that last one looks like snap-on sleeves worn unsnapped at the raglans — but still!

As far as Bests go:

ABOVE: I’m crazy about lots of other things about the A.L.C. collection — a brilliant meld of sporty and flirty — including the black ribbed sweater dress over wide pants and shrunken striped turtleneck. And then there’s that last look, which my brain sees as a simple stockinette pullover in ash Kestrel, paired with some Liberty-print Purl Soho City Gym Shorts.

BELOW: Great little sleeveless, boxy, cabled number at M.Patmos.

Best of Spring 2017: New York

Best of Resort 2017: Red, white (ish) and blue

Best of Resort 2017: Red, white (ish) and blue

It seemed like today was a good day to offer you something quick and light, and as I continued my way through the Resort 2017 collections, I realized nearly all my saves were red, white (ok, ivory) and blue! BLOG FATE.

Let’s take it in reverse. First, up there are two killer navy-blue sweaters from Sea, which has managed to be among my favorites for several seasons running now. The little sleeveless sweater is reminiscent of granny-square garments, but it’s knitting and bobbles (and white shirting side panels) and so good. And while I think I only love it as a part of this outfit on the whole, I am loving that long slinky ribbed tunic — which I believe is only apron-length in the front, and is also worn here the other way around — over the sculpted-sleeve white blouse and wide pants.

Then there’s the ivory:

Best of Resort 2017: Red, white (ish) and blue

The strategically sheer tank is Maiyet; the fringed skirt is Rosetta Getty; the cropped turtleneck is A.L.C.; and the last two splendorous ribbed beauties are Joseph. Joseph has been so good the last couple seasons I don’t even have the power of language to describe my response to the images. But for the red in this equation, I give you the following, also from Joseph:

Best of Resort 2017: Red, white (ish) and blue

I’m pretty sure I actually died for 30 seconds upon seeing this image, came back to life with my head in my hands, fully mute, and couldn’t do anything but stare at it for at least 10 minutes. You all know how I feel about red, and as much as I want this dress on me immediately and forever it would have to not be red. But this red dress with those pink shoes? I envy this girl for getting to wear it and stand there for this moment. It’s magic.

If anyone knows of a sewing pattern even remotely in the vicinity of this dress (or a monk’s robe pattern!) that I can adapt to something like this, please speak up.

For those of you in the US, happy 4th of July! And happy Monday to the rest of you! ;)

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PREVIOUSLY in Resort 2017: Jenni Kayne’s ribbing and stripes

Next of the Best of Resort 2017: Jenni Kayne’s ribbing and stripes

Next of the Best of Resort 2017: Jenni Kayne's ribbing and stripes

Jenni Kayne is one of those designers where every collection is so impeccable and wearable and consistent, you could just keep plucking out a piece here and there over the course of years, and gradually build the most reliable, timeless wardrobe imaginable. In addition to some really stunning dresses and pajama-inspired pieces (love this camisole!), her Resort 2017 collection includes tons of great stripes — both literally and in the form of ribbing — along with the always irresistible combination of sweaters with slippery little dresses. I’m especially smitten with the knee-length ribbed cardigan seen in the top photo above and the bottom photo below. The grey one paired with the ivory silk dress and killer brown boots is the waif-chic outfit dreams are made of. And can we talk about the raglans? The striped one above and navy tunic-length one below … Need.

Next of the Best of Resort 2017: Jenni Kayne's ribbing and stripes

First of the Best of Resort 2017: Ulla’s peasant cables

First of the Best of Resort 2017: Ulla Johnson

You guys know me as a minimalist, but there’s another me — the one who has never gotten over the peasant skirts of my childhood, and who has always suspected that instead of being born in 1968, I was meant to be at Haight-Ashbury that year. My inner hippie stays fairly well-hidden — mostly appearing only in my love of big turquoise jewelry and wide-leg pants. But nobody tempts me like Ulla Johnson, who routinely puts out the dreamiest flowy tops and slouchy skirts and embroidered and tasseled everything — and her Resort 2017 collection is no exception. Minimal-me always gets a little itchy when designers get carried away with a cable sweater, but you’ll understand why I’m 100% in favor of Ulla Johnson making this blush cable sweater with the spirit of a peasant top.

I’m also fairly obsessed with the two garments above — the dress and the playsuit I’d like to make into a dress — which could be classified as boho minimalist or something.

And then there’s her fringe. I saw one of her fringed ponchos (all natural) at a local shop a couple of months ago and I still don’t understand how I left without it, but the jacket below might be even more amazing. And I’ll definitely be thinking about suspendered full skirts over shrunken sweater-tees for next season …

First of the Best of Resort 2017: Ulla Johnson