My darling friend Anna Dianich of Tolt Yarn and Wool commissioned Jessie Roselyn to design a set of patterns for her Snoqualmie Valley Yarn last fall, and it’s super charming. (You know I love a good chevron stitch!) The complete Audrey Collection includes a hat, mittens and socks all in the same reverse-stockinette-with-chevrons stitch pattern. The hat, though, can be worn either side out and was photographed both ways. The photos on the model above show it stockinette side out, which is how I actually prefer it, so that’s the modified pattern I’ve chosen for the first Fringe Hatalong Series knitalong and am publishing below, with Anna’s permission.
In addition to the mittens and socks, the PDF version of the pattern includes a chart, so if you want the chart, the additional patterns and/or to have it in PDF form, you can purchase the complete set at Ravelry. I’m very grateful to Anna for giving us (this modified version of) the hat pattern for the knitalong. A portion of the proceeds from the pattern yarn is going to Seattle Children’s Hospital and Anna asks that, in exchange for the free hat pattern, you please donate a dollar or two to the same cause. You can make a donation through Seattle Children’s Hospital’s site.
The full hat pattern is below!
I’ll be answering questions (to the best of my abilities) in the comments section on this post. I hope you’ll share pictures of your hats here (link to wherever from the comments), on Ravelry and Instagram using the hashtag #fringehatalong. But I will only be able to answer questions posted here in the comments.
NOTES FOR BEGINNERS: In addition to being just knits and purls, this pattern is written with beginners in mind, including indications for where you should reset your row counter if you’re using one. (You could also just make tick marks or check marks on paper, or whatever works for you, as long as you’re consistent in doing it!) I would add that the stitch pattern for the body of the hat (beginning with the Pattern Rounds) is based on a 12-stitch repeat. To make it easier to keep your place and catch mistakes quickly, you might want to use 10 extra stitch markers to separate the repeats. You’ll already have one marker marking the beginning of your round, and that marker should be different from the rest (a different size, shape or color) so you know which one is the BOR (beginning of round) marker versus the rest of them. When you get to the first Pattern Round, work the first 12 stitches as indicated (p1, k11), then place a marker; work the next 12 stitches (p1, k11), place another marker, etc. On the successive rounds, you’ll simply slip each marker from the left to right needle as you come to them. You might drop them when switching to DPNs or during the last of the Top Shaping rounds once they’re in the way, but keep your BOR marked. Also, I strongly recommend you use the nicely stretchy Long-Tail Cast On.
For details on how to swatch for this hat, I’ve spelled that out in the comments. For general guidance and advice on how to knit a hat, see Anatomy lessons and Gauge and size.
. . .
Audrey Hat pattern by Jessie Roselyn
This pattern provides instructions for two levels of slouchiness: You can work an additional pattern repeat to create a more slouchy fit.
Hat is knitted in the round with a circular needle. When you reach the point where there are not enough stitches to stretch around the circular needle, switch to double-pointed needles. The hat may be worked entirely on double-pointed needles if you don’t have a circular, or if you prefer that method to knit in the round.
[see note on dimensions below]
. . .
Approximately 175 yd / 160 m of light DK weight yarn
Sample shown in 8″ fit knitted in Snoqualmie Valley Yarn (100% wool, 250 yd/230 m per 100g skein)
5 stitches/9 rows = 1 in/2.5 cm in pattern stitch
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US6/4.0 mm needles — a 16-in/40-cm circular needle and set of double-pointed needles (or use your preferred small-circumference method)
Stitch marker, row counter, tapestry needle
. . .
CO 88 stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rounds 1-10: [K2, P2] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, M1] repeat to end (110 stitches)
Round 12: [K5, M1] repeat to end (132 stitches)
Reset row counter.
Repeat pattern rounds 1-15 a total of three times for the 8″ hat (pictured) or four times for the slouchier 9.5″ hat.
Round 1: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 2: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 3: [P2, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 4: [K1, P1, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 5: [K1, P2, K7, P2] repeat to end
Round 6: [K2, P1, K7, P1, K1] repeat to end
Round 7: [K2, P2, K5, P2, K1] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, P1, K5, P1, K2] repeat to end
Round 9: [K3, P2, K3, P2, K2] repeat to end
Round 10: [K4, P1, K3, P1, K3] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, P2, K1, P2, K3] repeat to end
Round 12: [K5, P1, K1, P1, K4] repeat to end
Round 13: [K5, P3, K4] repeat to end
Round 14: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Round 15: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Reset row counter; repeat as indicated above for desired length
[NOTE: this section was tweaked at 8:55am PST to include one extra decrease round.]
Round 1: [K10, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 2: [K9, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 3: [K8, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 4: [K7, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 5: [K6, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 6: [K5, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 7: [K4, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 9: [K2, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 10: [K1, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 11: [K2tog] repeat to end
Bind off by pulling working yarn through remaining stitch loops with tapestry needle.
Weave in the ends and block.
. . .
CO: Cast on
K2tog: Knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased)
M1: Make 1 stitch — insert left needle under bar between stitches from front to back; knit this stitch through back loop (1 stitch increased)
Pattern and photos © Tolt Yarn and Wool; published with permission
Wow! That’s a teeny tiny hat. That hat would fit my 18 month old (19″ head last time I measured him). I envy people with such teeny tiny heads. It will take a lot of adjustments to get it to fit my giant brain.
That is the measurement for the ribbing, which is meant to stretch. The body of the hat is 132 stitches, which at 5sts/inch would be 26 inches. So if you want to cast on more for the ribbing, just do fewer increases in the setup rounds to get to that 132.
Karen- I typically knit hats with the ribbing one size smaller than the body. Would you recommend that for this hat- or just stick with the gauge needle since you are increasing so many stitches?
Yeah, with the significant difference in stitch count between the ribbing and body, I wouldn’t go down a needle size on the brim unless also increasing the cast-on count.
I like! I’m a slow knitter and a beginner, but I’m going to try this knit along. Thanks for doing this.
What a pretty design! Would you recommend going down a needle size or two for the ribbing? I find that my purls are looser than my knit stitches, so ribbing can actually be wider when I knit in the round.
oops, somehow I missed the convo with Cindy above. thanks for the clarification!!
Love the pattern! Can I use your serie about hats in a free knitting class that I am starting here at the university (the Netherlands, Maastricht)?
I guess it depends what you mean. I don’t have the rights to grant you to republish this pattern, but you’re certainly welcome to point your students to it here.
I did mean to point the students to your site, and show them your hat blogposts, and knit the pattern in class.
A thank you and a request: we love hats! I’m hoping to cast this on along with my 8 year old daughter who is progressing to circular needles. Thank you for this lovely pattern. The request is for myself and others who may be as technologically challenged as me….any way these patterns could be formatted that we could just press a “print this” icon and just the pattern would print….not the whole page plus comments? I’ve run across this handy method on some cooking and knitting websites, and I really appreciate the ease. Regardless, we probably will copy and paste this pattern to a Word document to print and start immediately….maybe just a thought for the future? Sorry to be so long-winded :)
I find that I can copy the pattern directions and pictures (most of the time) and paste them into a word document. That way I get only what I need.
There is a free program called printerfriendly.com that you can download and it turns your web page into a pdf or other format for easier printing. Works for about 90% of the pages out there.
FYI–the name of the free program Karen refers to above is Print Friendly. URL is https://www.printfriendly.com/
What a beautiful hat, I’ll be casting on shortly. Thank you for doing this.
I recently discovered your blog, I’m loving it so far. Thank you for this, I’ll be casting on tonight.
I recently bought one skein of the Wensleydale yarn from you. Do you think that would work for this patter on size 6 round needles? Also, do you have to transition to double pointed needles for the crown? (Obvious beginner here!) Thank you!
I suspect it would — considered that myself. You should swatch and see! And yes, eventually you won’t have enough stitches left to stretch around the circular needle, so you have to transition either to DPNs or some other small-circumference technique (magic loop or two circs).
I have never used DPNs before–do you think it’s manageable to figure out once I am there?
Yep, it’s really not hard, and like I said in describing the process in the Anatomy Lessons post (http://fringeassociation.com/2015/02/10/how-to-knit-a-hat-part-1-anatomy-lessons/) this is the easiest way to learn it, because you already have fabric on the needles, so it’s not disorienting like it can be if starting from the cast-on.
Since this is a 12 stitch repeat pattern and you suggest markers every 12 stitches for beginners , why does the first decrease only involve 11 stitches?
That’s a good catch — thank you, Nancy! I’ll get in touch with Anna and make a correction.
I had same issue… 11 in the first repeat…lol… thought i was going crazy. Took it out, recounted, same issue…lol.. just started to read all these comments to see if it was a typo..and maybe a correction would be posted. Here. Glad to know i was not off in my counting…lol
Thx for sharing.
I’ve knit this hat, it worked perfectly, it is a beautiful spiral. The math doesn’t work out as well if the decreases start out at 10 stitches. 132/12=11, which is why the decreases start at 9 (to create 11.) I’m a little concerned if you start the decreases at 10 it won’t look as good.
Hi, Kimberly. I just had an email from Anna saying the tech editor pointed out that 132 divides evenly by either 12 or 11. (The body of the hat is divided by 12.) So it should work out the same either way — it’s just a matter of how the decrease swirls line up with the chevrons, right? I’d love it if you’d send (or post) a pic of your crown!
Thanks Karen, I’ll be interested in seeing how it comes out starting with 10 stitches before the decrease. I wonder if I’ll wish I’d waited for this Hat-a-long! :) I’ll send a photo of my finished crown.
When I make my swatch do I do a K2P2 pattern?
That’s a very good question, Linda, thank you for asking it! Gauge for the pattern is given in the patterned stitch — the chevron stitch pattern that’s created in the Pattern Rounds section. The repeat is 12 stitches wide (which you can tell from the first instruction being “P1, K11” — that’s a total of 12 stitches) and 15 rows/rounds tall. You need at least 4 inches to measure. Since the gauge is stated as 5 sts/inch, you can guess that the 12-stitch repeat is roughly 2.5 inches wide. So you need to work at least two repeats wide (cast on 24 or 36 stitches), and then work the 15 rows as many times as you need for your fabric to be at least 4 inches tall.
General advice on knitting, blocking and measuring a swatch can be found in the Gauge and size post.
Thanks, makes perfect sense and I found your gauge and size post very helpful, too! Casting on!
Thank you for sharing this – and all of your other detailed instructions. As I challenge myself out of my comfort zone, I am learning from much from your posts.
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so much going on with this kal – great to see and be part of! Love the energy of courage as some tread into new territory! Fun and fashionable – great choice, Karen! I’ve decided to use a Cormo yarn purchased at my LYS – needed to see what all the hype was about (with Cormo) – sheep raised in Lonsdale MN – love that local feel! yay hats!
I just received my yarn in the mail today and will be casting on. I love your blog and also this
pattern. Thank you so much!
Oh I love this hat! Perfect!
I am definitely going to make this!
When I am done, I will post it on my blog.
ok – so I think this happens to me fairly often but I’m really noticing it in this hat – my M1 are creating these big holes just above the rib. what’s up with THAT? is there a way to fix w/o going all the way back? anyone? anyone??
Unless the M1 stitch is twisted properly, it will create a hole. So if you’re picking the bar up from the front, you have to knit into the back of it once it’s on the left needle, which twists the stitch and closes the hole. Or if you’re picking up from the back, knit through the front.
The M1 is linked up there to a video on how to do it. I would recommend watching that and seeing if what you’re doing matches that.
bummer – pattern said M1 by picking up from the front and knitting the stitch – did NOT indicate Ktbl so I assumed it was just a straight knit stitch… this might be my inexperience but DANG… wish the instructions in the patterns would say ktbl rather than simply “knit the stitch”. I’m already (almost) throught the first pattern repeat – suggestions on repairing the hole or….. RIP IT back? argh
It does say knit through the back loop, both above and in the PDF. I included the video link for good measure! Since I know there are a lot of new knitters participating. I’m genuinely sorry you missed that detail, and unfortunately I don’t know of a fix other than ripping back. Unless you just want to take a yarn tail and weave it closed at the end, which might be more work than ripping back.
totally my bad – just seeing now that I only read(directions) to the end of the line, assuming…likely distracted… sorry about all the CAPS in my last post. I think I will close my eyes and just start pulling it out – lesson learned so, happy to have made the mistake I guess. Pretty, pretty pattern, Karen. I will be much happier in the end, without the holes! Onward!
Yep, you’ll never regret fixing a mistake! Glad you caught it so quickly.
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Fun! I missed this post originally, but count me in now.
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I love this hat! So cute! But, I cannot get the pattern to print. Nothing comes up on print preview or just clicking on print. I don’t want to buy the pattern at Ravelry because I don’t want to knit the socks or mittens. I’m perfectly happy to make a donation to Seattle’s Children’s Hospital because, not only the good they do in the community but also because one of my son’s was helped at one of their clinics. Do I need to make the donation before it will print out?
Oh no, not at all. You should just be able to choose print in your browser’s menu and it should spit right out.
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Love it! The techknitter (http://techknitting.blogspot.no/2011/02/circular-swatches-knit-flat-back-and.html) trick for swatching for circs is so great! Maybe now I will always (or more often) swatch for hats!
Hope donations are flowing in to Seattle Children’s for use of this pattern!
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My Aubrey Hat is finished – thank you to Karen and Jessie! (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/MJLivBold/audrey-collection)
A wonderful new learning experience I hadn’t grasped before: the whole “make one” instruction to lift the bar and “knit at the back.” I tend to “not see” some details in pattern instructions (like a Jared Flood scarf chart that was to be read right to left and then left to right – I did all the rows right to left and couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get some of the pattern sections to work!! It was only a random comment in Ravelry that tuned me in – ach!) Luckily I reread the M1 instructions a few times before starting the increases and finally “saw” the knit from behind. What a lovely increase that made!
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Thank you so much for this lovely pattern! I’m excited to CO (and give my donation) today! <3
Thank you! I just finished this in a beautiful soft peach color… I’m making another one once I can choose a color…this was a great pattern and just reinforced many of my knitting skills. It’s time for a sweater now! LOVE your site and everything you’ve shared.
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Reblogged this on beadtherapygirl and commented:
Fab KAL (knit along) from the Fringe Association for a pretty hat. Suitable for beginners with plenty of information and how tos.
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Hi. I love your hat pattern. I knitted it in a worsted weight yarn and it came out a little big but is very pretty. To make it a little smaller how many should I cast on in the beginning. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!
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Can you tell me whether the M1 stitches are left or right leaning? Thanks.
Hi, Cynthia. It’s spelled out under Abbreviations, but generally if a pattern just says M1 you can assume it’s M1L — pick up from the front and knit through the back.
Thanks! I am a beginner and needle all the help I can get.
I am In the process of knitting this hat for myself, and my 7 year old daughter really likes it. Is there an easy way to decrease the number of stitches? Just to make it more interesting, she has chosen a fingering weight yarn. The yarn says to use needles size 0-2.
You’ll just need to do swatch and measure your stitch count. Then measure her head and do the math.
Thanks Karen. If I wanted to keep the same pattern, do I decrease the large cluster of knit stitches that are usually in the middle of the repeat pattern?
Never mind. The repeats are 12 stitches. I just have to make sure I decrease by multiples of 12.
Right. Your chevrons will be smaller, and more of them. But the crown of Audrey is all stockinette — so you stop doing the patterned stitch when you’re ready to start decreasing.
Please help, I just started and co 88 stitches and on round 11 when I finished that round, I have only 105 stitches instead of 110. No one else seems to be having this problem. My calculations are 17 increases which would equal 105 stitches. I am not experienced enough to adjust this or figure out what I have done wrong. Thanks
Hi, Sandra. I’m not sure how you’re arriving at that number, so not sure exactly what’s going wrong or how to help you correct for it. You K4 and then M1 — so you’re making one new stitch after every fourth stitch. 88 divided by 4 is 22 M1s, or an increase of 22 stitches, which makes it 110 total at the end of the round. Are you doing the M1 increase as specified in the pattern or some other form of increase?
Ok, I am making the increase in the next stitch after I knit 4 which would be a 5th stitch. Should I M1 out of the 4th stitch then?
I think I got it, thanks.
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Now that I have almost finished my hat, was wondering if you have a pattern for a matching scarf? Love the hat, making it for my granddaughter. Thanks!
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Just made it, love it! Now making a matching cowl…..just increasing number of stitches.
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I just love this hat! I would like a to knit it for my 4 year old grand niece. Please help me modify the pattern e.g. How many stitches to cast on, and how many repeat pattern rounds?
I also plan to make a matching one ( for her mother) as pattern above! Thanks so much!
Hi, Jennifer. You’ll just need to do the math based on your gauge and your desired dimensions. Knit a swatch and measure how wide each repeat is. Then multiply that however many times to get the intended circumference.
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I’m knitting hats for cancer patients who have lost their hair.
Usually I cast on 72 stitches and don’t increase.
This may be too big for the patients.
I’m not good at calculating to change stitch numbers.
Can you suggest how to make it smaller,
With the number of stitches to cast on and how many to increase to to keep the pattern
I would try just going down a needle size if you think it needs to be smaller. You will need to keep the stitch counts as written for the stitch pattern to work out.
will try that. Thanks
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Hi! I know some people have asked questions about the size of this hat. But I just had a quick question. I got us size 6 (4mm) 16 in (40.6 cm) circular needles. I only knit about 5 rows and the cuff seems really small. Did I get the right size needles? Thank you!
You should always use whatever size needles give you the correct gauge for the pattern. Only a swatch will tell you is you’re on gauge! There’s some swatch advice specific to this pattern above: https://fringeassociation.com/2015/02/12/audrey-by-jessie-roselyn-free-hat-pattern/#comment-39984
Hi there! Love this pattern, and hope to start it soon! Just wondering, though – is it possible to have it published or added to Ravelry? I’d love to be able to keep it in my library of patterns there. I’d be willing to set it up if I would be allowed to. Thanks again for this great pattern!
I only have the rights to publish here on the blog. But you can fave/save/queue it at Ravelry using the link in the post. Glad you love it!
Awesome, thanks so much!!
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Hi. Love your pattern! I’m nearly done the hat, just starting the decrease rows now. I used acrylic DK yarn (less expensive) since this is my first hat and I knit a gauge swatch. I thought it was right (although I never made a swatch before, so I could have measured incorrectly), but the hat is a little large around the ribbed edge. If I try again using the recommended yarn, is that yarn less stretchy or would you recommend going down a needle size? Thanks again for a great pattern!
I’m not sure acrylic has the same kind of elasticity, so you might get a different result even if your gauge is correct. But either way, I would try going down a needle size, and/or using the recommended yarn.
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Hi Karen. Great pattern. I’m knitting this now for my grandaughter. It looks small, but I’m assuming it’s meant to be stretchy @ the brim. Do you recommend blocking to bring out the stitch definition? Thanks
I recommend blocking your swatch so you’ll know how it will turn out, size-wise. Dimensions are in the pattern, if you match pattern gauge. And by blocking your swatch, you’ll also know how the yarn will look in this stitch pattern. If you weren’t making it for a specific head, you could always just wing it and find someone with a head that matches however it turns out! But to make sure it fits and the yarn is right, take time to swatch and measure.
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I have never worked with circular needles. Can I make this hat with straight needles.
Technically, you could, but you’d need to convert the instructions from RS only to worked flat, add selvage stitches, and seam it. But learning to knit with circular needles is a piece of cake and will change your knitting life, so I’d do that instead! Hats are the perfect place to start.