Portugal part 2: Douro, Porto and Teresa the spinner

Portugal part 2: Douro, Porto and Teresa the spinner

We left Lisbon that Tuesday morning — the eight of us and our luggage (and shopping bags) divided between two rental cars — and headed north. One of us, Allison, is a wine importer with connections, and others of us are avid wine drinkers. Allison had one vineyard in particular she wanted to take us to; we all wanted to visit the city of Porto; and there was someone very special Rosa wanted us to meet. So Jaime and Amber, in their trademark way, had found this ridiculously amazing Airbnb in quite the remote spot, which was roughly an hour or two’s drive to each of our intended destinations over the next few days.

Portugal travel guide: Bulas winery

The winery was Bulas (the s is a sh; Bulas rhymes with goulash), in the Douro river region (aka “the Douro”), and while Allison had tried to describe the uniqueness of the Douro to us — and though we took a thousand pictures — there are no words or images that can begin to adequately convey the landscape. (A UNESCO-designated World Heritage landscape.) Six of us did the periodically nail-biting drive across skyscraper-tall bridges, through sprawling ranges of steeply sloped mountains, up and around and down into the spot where Bulas sits, surrounded on all sides with grapevines planted in perilously narrow terraces carved all the way up every slope of land, as far as the eye can see — and then some. Think of the rice terraces of Southeast Asia and now mentally plant each narrow ledge of soil with a single row of grapevines, and you still can’t begin to imagine it. It’s breathtaking.

We had a fantastic time at the winery. (Four of us dressed all in handmade — that’s Keli, me, Jaime and Amber above, looking hilariously glamorous for how sweaty we were. Pattern details here.) We were given the farm tour by Isabel, of the Bulas family, Joana the winemaker, and the nicest farm manager whose name I regret I’ve forgotten, who wished in Portuguese that our French were good enough that we could all converse that way instead of English, so he could understand. The wines (white, rosé and port) were fantastic, and we acquired a fair share of bottles before making the twisty drive back down to restaurant DOC for a posh late lunch on the river (indoors, though — it had begun storming furiously outside), arriving back to the house at twilight for makeshift light dinner of tinned fish and olives and wine and whatnot, and a late swim in a light rain. Seriously: idyllic.

Teresa spinning Bucos Portuguese yarn

But what you really want to hear about is Teresa, who Rosa took us to meet the following day. Teresa hand-spins Rosa’s Bucos yarn (bucosh), and had agreed to give us a demonstration of her technique, with Rosa there to translate. It was hot — although one of the less suffocating days of the week — and so Rosa brought Teresa and her stool out into the shaded fern patch across the lane from her house. Step by step, she demonstrated — teasing out the fleece, carding it between her two giant brushes, then spinning on her large bobbin, talking rapidly the whole way — and invited us to give it a try. Amber and Jaime being the spinners among us, they stepped up. Amber held her own at the carding, and Jaime gave the spinning a go, even though Teresa’s rig is not much like the drop-spindle Jaime teaches. Teresa has a disstaff that goes under her arm and into her waist tie, and she parks a wad of fleece on its tip. From there, she draws it out and onto the top of her bobbin/spindle/whatsit, winding it artfully around and up, and catching it just under a notch in the tip. She’s fast and skilled, and was very proud to show us and to stand for photos. She was striking such poses I fell completely in love with her and her spirit, even though I couldn’t understand a word she said. And she spoke to me persistently and at length, seeming to have faith that if she just kept it up long enough I’d eventually start to understand her. And maybe I would have — I hope so — if we’d had more than an afternoon.

Teresa also knits from her handspun, and I was the only one with big enough feet to justify buying a pair of her socks. She knits traditional Portuguese men’s socks, which are generally lace and interesting to knit, as compared to the traditional women’s socks, which are plain. She’s also a weaver, and told us (through Rosa) about weaving blankets as a girl, with her mother, and then they would pile them folded onto their heads and walk them into the village to sell them. A cousin had borrowed her loom (how long ago I don’t know), but she was eager to introduce us to her friend Ana, who weaves with Teresa’s handspun as well. So off we went to Ana’s house, where Teresa wound bobbins for Ana to weave with, and Ana proudly showed us her 100-year-old handmade loom, built and passed down by her father. Ana also asked us to speak French with her, and we managed. And eventually the two of them broke into song! They were amazing, and we hated to say goodbye, and they couldn’t believe we weren’t staying to eat and drink, but we hadn’t realized that was an option and so hadn’t planned accordingly.

To really appreciate them — especially seeing Teresa spinning and chatting away — go find them somewhere toward the middle of my Instagram Portugal Story, where you can see them in motion and hear them sing. In that photo at the top of this post, Teresa is (very briefly) modeling a heavy wool cape that’s traditional for the region, which Rosa had brought out to show us.

Portugal travel guide: Porto

We had a dinner reservation in Porto and only about an hour to roam around ahead of that, by the time we made the hour-ish drive from wherever Teresa’s house was, but we all fell instantly head-over-heels for this city and swore we’d go back when we can. We had just enough time to take more tile photos and selfies, peer into the bookstore that inspired Harry Potter from the sidewalk (such a tourist draw it requires an entrance fee), and visit our third A Vida Portuguesa — the biggest of them — before winding our way through the streets to our teensy restaurant, where we sat in the window and ate so much of everything on the menu that we had enough bacalhau left over to make a big “bacal’omelet” the next morning before heading higher into the mountains for the most epic phase of our adventure, which I’ll tell you about tomorrow.

PIT STOP NAZARÉ

Portugal travel guide: Nazaré

On our way from Lisbon to the Porto region, we stopped for lunch in the sun-drenched little beach town of Nazaré, which is apparently quite a tourist scene at peak season but we hit it about 10 minutes before that, so it felt local and charming. We had lunch (lots of bacalhau and other seafood, of course), put our feet in the ocean, and stopped into a little fabric shop Rosa recommended, called Casa dos Escoceses, where they sell Portuguese wools and traditional plaid fishermen’s shirts and rustic handmade clogs and loads of colorful scarves. I bought a big, bright blue, paisley cotton scarf because I was so smitten with all the little old ladies of Nazaré, who have a very distinct sartorial way about them: layered knee-length skirts, patterned elbow-sleeved blouses tucked in, and scarves simply draped over their heads, not tied under their chins as you’d expect. I adored those ladies, and treasure my Nazaré scarf. (We also stopped there for a night — at the Hotel Magic! — on our way back to Lisbon at the end of the trip, which is when the twilight images here were taken.)

DRIVING IN PORTUGAL

Several people on Instagram asked about this. They drive on the right side of the road, and while the road signs are obviously different, they’re easy enough to get the hang of — and with GPS, it’s really no big deal in that regard. The only challenging thing is how narrow the roads are in so many places; learn to beep your horn a lot on your way around narrow blind curves. We had designated drivers and navigators in each car (I was a navigator, and my hat’s off to the drivers), and as long as someone was monitoring the GPS and the signs and talking the driver through it, it was all fine. However, to drive in Lisbon is not a thing I would ever want to do. (And I say that as someone who drove in San Francisco for years without ever thinking a thing about it.)

(Jen Hewett x Fringe Field Bag, notebook and tool pouch from Fringe Supply Co.)

. . .

D O U R O  +  P O R T O   T R A V E L   D E T A I L S

Lodging

• Calçada do Souto Farm
Stunning Airbnb that’s like a tile-roofed stone fortress that opens up to a backyard pool with amazing views out over a valley of vineyards. Quite remote (I believe it was about an hour or hour-and-a-half drive from Porto), but if the location works for you, the house can’t be beat.

Wine and Dining

Bulas Wines
Traditional Vinho Verde region wines, including white, red, rosé and a variety of ports. Jaw-droppingly beautiful place and lovely people.

DOC
By far the poshest place we ate in Portugal: chic minimalist interior, impeccable service (of the invisible sort), world-class food — from the amuses bouches to the entreés — and the most picturesque setting, right on the river Douro.

Taberna dos Mercadores
Teeny tiny and authentic, on a steep Porto street just up from the river. Casual vibe and fantastic service — we really enjoyed these guys. Be aware that the portions are huge: 5 of us ordered bacalhau and that alone was enough fish to feed the whole table plus the people waiting on the sidewalk. Big portions are apparently typical in the north of Portugal.

Shopping

• A Vida Portuguesa
If we could only have gone to one location of this made-in-Portugal emporium, I’d pick the Porto one — it’s large and stunning and has some of everything that the other two stores had, plus more in the way of books, pantry foods (tinned fish, olive oil, salt, tea, etc), Burel blankets, baskets and lots more.

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PREVIOUSLY in Portugal guide: Part 1, Lisbon and Portuguese knitting

Photo of me and my Teresa socks © Anna Dianich; remaining photos © Karen Templer

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Elsewhere

Elsewhere: Fibery links for your clicking pleasure

Last day in Florida today and it’s been such a makeriffic week! I have lots to show you. But for now, Elsewhere:

“I love showing kids that you can take what was garbage, and with your own two hands and old equipment and no electricity, you can literally clothe yourself from head to toe.”

Cutest socks ever

– This whole issue of Seamwork looks amazing — my first click will be this brief history of tartan

This put a smile on my face, for obvious reasons

Another fantastic birth of a yarn story, Buchaille (plus scenes from the mill)

IN SHOP NEWS: The new Taproot is here! With a shawl pattern by Courtney Spainhower, among other treats. We’ve also replenished various sizes/kinds of buttons (still more coming soon), the Bento Bags, the repair hooks and the Field Bags!

Have a fantastic weekend — thank you for reading!

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PREVIOUSLY in Elsewhere

Our Tools, Ourselves: Kathy Cadigan

In Our Tools, Ourselves, we get to know fiber artisans of all walks, ages, styles and skill levels, by way of their tools. For more on the series, read the introduction.

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

I’m enamored of Seattle photographer Kathy Cadigan‘s taste in knitting. (You’ll recall her Jón hat. See also Monochrome Tolt, Pembroke, Volcanic Maren, etc.) And I am also a fan of her photography, as experienced via Instagram. So naturally I wanted a peek through her lens at her own knitting life. I had no idea what I was in for — you’re going to love this.

. . .

Do you knit, crochet, weave, spin, dye, sew … ?

I’ve tried my hand at all of the above; knitting and spinning are the two I’m most committed to. I first decided to learn to knit 13 years ago after seeing a copy of the now obsolete Martha Stewart Baby Magazine. The first issue featured a beautiful knitting tutorial for a little jacket, knitted on straights, 7 rectangles pieced together. The knitting went just fine but the seaming part was a disaster for me. After that, I sought help at the craft store and have been knitting ever since. Like many knitters who began in the ’90s, I started off knitting with novelty yarns and synthetic blends. Today, my preferences involve only the woolliest and most rustic-y of yarns, thanks in large part to the owner of my LYS, Anna Dianich.

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

Tell us about your tool preferences and peccadilloes.

I’ve haphazardly collected all sorts of needles over the years: plastic, metal, wood, straights, circulars … you name it. Now I knit almost exclusively on Addi metal circs.

How do you store or organize your tools? Or do you?

The majority of my old needles are jumbled together in a plastic  zip-up storage bag.  I dig through it on the odd occasion that I need a US size 50. ;)  Tape measure, darning needles, etc., I keep in an old school pencil box.

How do you store or organize your works-in-progress?

They’re kind of organized … in a disorganized sort of way.

I like leaving new skeins of yarn out in baskets or on trays because seeing them makes me smile and dream of the new projects they’re intended for.

I “store” works in progress out in the open on wooden trays and also now in Fringe Supply Bento bags! The Bento bags are brilliant because they act like little baskets for display, then they tie up neatly away for travel. Perfect. [Editor’s note: I swear I don’t even anticipate people saying these things, much less prompt it!]

Eventually, all woefully unfinished projects and far-too-long unbroken skeins of yarn go into under-bed storage totes. For the most part, I’ve been pretty good about keeping my stash down.

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

Are there any particularly prized possessions amongst your tools?

My most prized fiber tool is a recently acquired Sid Sharples/Jack Daniels California Bulky Spinner. It’s solid walnut, crafted in the 1970s.  A lovely knitter/spinner from the Bay Area answered my call on Ravelry when I was searching for that rare bird.

Also, I love collecting books on historical textile traditions. I sort of have books stacked everywhere! It makes me happy to be surrounded by them. I recently picked up a copy of a fabulous book called Knitting in Art. I’d like to try graphing out a beautiful Alaskan motif pictured (under magnifying glass).

Also, also, I love my old cameras. (I’ve included one of my favorite captures: an image of Solfar, the Sun Voyager in Reykjavik, Iceland. I shot it on very unstable instant film. My family had the image enlarged on canvas for me. The result is surprisingly painterly.)

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

Do you lend your tools?

I don’t usually lend.  I just give. Mostly needles and a Rasmussen table loom. ;)

What is your favorite place to knit?

When I knit with my beloved knit group I knit to socialize, catch up on the latest, receive counsel on knitterly things and life in general.

When I need to get down to serious knitting business, my favorite spot is at my desk. Next favorite spot is our window seat. Favorite knitting uniform: swants! and mocs.

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

What effect do the seasons have on you?

Here in Seattle, I find myself knitting almost year-round. I love it even in the summer months! The youngsters at the pool are always curious about what I’m knitting.  I make sure to bring stash yarn and pompom makers with me. The pompoms are always a big hit.

Do you have a dark secret, guilty pleasure or odd quirk, where your fiber pursuits are concerned?

Yes. If given the choice between purchasing a knitting kit complete with required yarn and pattern or purchasing the finished knitted object, I choose the FO. Without even blinking.

Except when I went to Iceland. I brought home both.

What are you working on right now?

I’m experimenting with different fibers to spin bulky singles for a Cowichan-style sweater vest. I really don’t know what I’m doing. But I’ve been so inspired after a trip to see Andrea Rangel in Cowichan Bay with my friends Anna and Paula.

I brought home a Cowichan Sweater made by a Coast Salish knitter as reference for construction. It will be quite the learning curve!

Photographer Kathy Cadigan's knitting life

PREVIOUSLY in Our Tools, Ourselves: Lauren (of Süsk and Banoo)

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Photos © Kathy Cadigan

Our Tools, Ourselves: Nicole Dupuis

Nicole Dupuis knitting tools

In Our Tools, Ourselves, we get to know makers of all walks, styles and skill levels, by way of their tools. For more on the series, read the introduction.

NICOLE DUPUIS blogs about knitting and sewing, knits samples for the likes of Brooklyn Tweed and Knitbot, and is the designer and maker behind Gris Handknits. Somehow she also runs marathons and works as an exhibition content developer for a natural history museum. She lives in Ontario, Canada.

In addition to her blog, Cocoknits, you can find Nicole at Flickr, Pinterest and Ravelry. Thank you so much, Nicole, for getting this series off to a stellar start —

. . .

Are you a knitter, crocheter, weaver, spinner, sewer … ?

Knitting: I’ve been knitting obsessively for over 15 years now, and I probably spend at least half of my free time doing it!Spinning: I also own a spinning wheel, an Ashford Traditional I snagged at a flea market for $40! I would call myself a novice spinner. I can spin and ply nice smooth yarn in the worsted style, but cannot for the life of me produce the lofty, fluffy, fuzzy woolen yarn I covet.

Sewing: I grew up wearing the most beautiful handmade clothes. My mom is an expert seamstress and I learned to sew basically through osmosis. I’ve recently dusted off my sewing machine and entertain fantasies of a wardrobe filled with handmade Liberty of London and Harris Tweed clothes to go with all of my handknits. I also dream of making hand-pieced and stitched old-fashioned quilts.

Crochet: My crochet skills are rudimentary at best, I mostly pull out my crochet hook to assist my knitting: making a provisional cast-on, picking up stitches or securing a steek. I would love to learn how to make pretty covered rocks like my friend Margie Oomen, or crochet lovely, lacy edgings for hand-sewn dresses.

Weaving: Sounds like fun, but frankly our tiny house could not support another hobby, so I better stay away from that one!

Nicole Dupuis knitting and spinning

Tell us about your tool preferences and peccadilloes.

When it comes to my knitting tools, (and yarns for that matter) I’m afraid I’m a complete snob! They need to be pleasing to the eye and touch. I have an aesthetic fondness for beautifully turned wooden straight needles (ebony Lantern Moon needles are the ultimate in my book) and will use them to knit simple things like scarves and swatches. But I have to admit that nothing beats nickel-plated Addi Turbo circulars for speed and efficacy, especially on bigger, heavier projects. For small projects, I really like bamboo DPNs, especially the ones that Clover makes. I simply cannot abide aluminium needles, especially those dreadfully cheap grey ones. The gritty scraping sound they make makes my skin crawl. See, told you I was a snob!

How do you store or organize your tools? Or do you?

My tools are in a perpetual state of organized chaos: straights plunked into a mason jar, DPNs sitting in an old pottery planter, circs tangled up in an old wooden crate. My small tools I keep in a pretty linen Bookhou pouch. Notions like buttons and snaps live in an ancient cookie tin.

How do you store or organize your works-in-progress?

Again, organized chaos reigns in my house. I have too many WIPs to count, and they’re all precariously piled up in baskets all over the house. I have been meaning to sew a bunch of project bags to keep them better organized and dust-free, but that hasn’t happened yet.

Are there any particularly prized possessions amongst your tools?

One of my favourite tools are stitch markers that I made. A while ago, I found a necklace in a charity shop that had beautiful abalone oval “beads.” I took the necklace apart and threaded sterling silver jump rings into the shell pieces. The amazing multitude of colours in the mother-of-pearl seem to always “match” my knitting in some way. I never tire of looking at them. I keep them in a small pretty blue and white tin.

Do you lend your hooks or needles?

Freely.

Nicole Dupuis knitting tools

What is your favorite place to knit?

You’ll most often find me curled up on the living room couch, elbows tucked in a fluffy down cushion, with a cup of tea nearby. Music, audiobooks or podcasts keep me company. Light is another important component. I love sitting at the window, looking outside while I work. In the evening I light beeswax candles for their beautiful scent and honey glow.

Do you ever leave home without a project in your bag?

Never ever.

Do you have a dark secret, guilty pleasure or odd quirk, where your fiber pursuits are concerned?

I have a closet filled from floor to ceiling with decadent yarn. Opening the closet usually sets off what my husband calls a yarn-valanche. There is a LOT of amazing stuff in there: cashmere, baby alpaca, fine merino, puffy angora. Sometimes I think I will need more than one lifetime to knit it all!

What are you working on right now?

Ahem … well, as I mentioned previously, I do tend to have lots on the go at the same time but my “main” project is the Annabel cardigan by Carrie Bostick Hoge. I’m knitting it in the yarn called for: Quince and Co Osprey in the Glacier colourway. This yarn is seriously squishy and lovely, especially in garter stitch! Because I’m a shameless copycat, I’m making a pocketed version like the lovely Lori. I even have antler buttons similar to the ones that she used. (Did I mention that I also have a bit of a button problem?) I can’t wait to finish it!

Nicole Dupuis knitting basket

All photos © Nicole Dupuis