KTFO-2016.1 : Wool gauze pullover

KTFO-2016.1 : Wool gauze pullover

This year I want to do a better job for myself and the blog of documenting how the things I make wind up being integral parts of my wardrobe rather than random disembodied garments. (Part of the whole mission to make things that do so, you know.) That objective is inspired in part by my friend Jen Beeman of Grainline Studio, who happens also to be the pattern drafter behind this great pullover, which is a modified version of her Hemlock Tee, details of which I’ll get to in a moment. It’s arguable whether this is truly my first finish of the year, though — I hemmed that blue dress the day before we left for Florida, so technically that was first, but I’m not convinced it’s finished. I think I’m going to make it sleeveless! So that will be for another day.

For now, I present you this woven pullover I’ve been talking about since October, which in this first iteration is every bit as good as I had hoped. You may recall this whole thing started when I was professing my love for my beat-up old sweatshirt and lamenting the fact of there being exactly one pullover in my closet as we headed into colder weather. I knew sewing a few woven replicas of that sweatshirt would be quicker than knitting sweaters, and time was of the essence. My thinking took a little detour when I saw that Karen Walker top with the knit ribbing, but once I was cutting muslin and working out my pattern, I found myself heading back toward my original vision, and am very happy with how it turned out. It’s a fantastic layering piece. Now that I have the pattern worked out, I can surely whip one out in under three hours. It doesn’t take a lot of fabric — this one was sewn from some scraps of an amazingly light and warm wool gauze I bought a few weeks ago (for $15!) when Elizabeth Suzann was clearing out some fabric. And it will be just as wonderful and useful in linen as it is in wool.

In this case, I photographed it with some of my oldest and dearest: my trusty Endless Summer Tunic, my 15-y-o me-mended jeans, and a beat-up pair of ankle boots. But you can see from the sketches up there how versatile it is! I can’t wait to make more.

Pattern: Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studio (modified, see below)
Fabric: Unknown black wool gauze
Cost: free pattern + $15 fabric = $15

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HEMLOCK TEE MODIFICATIONS

– Re-drew the front neckline for a smaller, higher neck opening

– Straightened the sides (removed the A-line, in other words)

– Marked where I wanted the finished length to be (based on my beloved sweatshirt), then drew the cut line for front and back pieces 1.75″ above that

– Widened the sleeves an inch on each side without any change to the upper curve of the sleeve cap; redrew the underarm curve accordingly

– Sewed the shoulders, sleeves and side seams according to the pattern instrux, but with a 3/8″ seam allowance, because I’m weird like that

– Neckband is a 2″ bias strip, pressed in half lengthwise, attached (while stretching pretty aggressively) to the right side of the garment with a 1/4″ SA, then folded upwards and pressed; top-stitched in ivory with longer stitch length (3.5) and black bobbin thread

– Waist band is two pieces each 4.5″ x [the finished width of the garment + 3/4″], pressed in half lengthwise — I seamed two ends together (right sides facing, 3/8″ SA), then lined them up with the garment and marked where to sew the other ends so the circumference would match the body; then attached with right sides facing and 1/4″ seam allowance; folded down and pressed, and top-stitched in ivory, same details as above

– Hemmed sleeves to the length I wanted, turning them 1.5″ twice and stitching as close as possible to the fold line

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PREVIOUSLY in FOs: 2015 Year in Review

Winter silhouette 3: Everything over narrow

Winter silhouette 3: Everything over narrow

In the interest of keeping it realistic, this third and last “silhouette” for this winter is also pants-based — I’ll save learning how to wear skirts and dresses (and finding time to make them) for spring. So there were the skinny pants and the wide-cropped pants, and here we have the pants in between: a narrower shape that’s still a bit cropped but straight in the lower leg. This includes the made-in-L.A. Point Sur/J.Crew jeans I mentioned in the last post as well as a pair of awesome tobacco-colored men’s chinos from the unworn pile in my closet, which I’m having altered. I often buy men’s pants because they fit me better in the rise and lower leg than narrow-cut women’s pants, which seem to be made for people with no calves. However, men’s pants are generally too wide in the thigh. In high school, I was in the habit of reshaping the legs myself, as well as hemming them, but the fact is I hate hemming and would way rather pay someone to do it. If it costs me fifteen or twenty bucks to take these pants from never-worn to always-worn, so be it! (But before this year is out, I’m vowing to attempt to sew a pair of pants for myself.)

Here’s the amazing thing I’ve discovered: this whole wardrobe planning thing works! Thinking it through like this, I zeroed in on a few very high-impact pants decisions — buying a new pair of jeans (the right pair!) to replace the two failing pair, buying the wide-cropped pants I’ve been yearning for that give a whole different look to things, and altering the unworn chinos, which are another welcome alternative to jeans. And by thinking through the tops and narrowing it down to things that really work in combination with each other, I landed on these three pieces that really are amazing building blocks. You can take any of the top combos from all three of these winter silhouette posts and put them with any of the pants — the only exception being the boxy pullovers on their own, which isn’t an option with the skinny pants. But basically now the pieces I own and the few pieces I’m making add up to an incredible number of possible outfits, whereas before it was all missed connections.

I finished the first version of the woven pullover over the weekend and will post details on that soon, and have gotten Bob’s sweater to the point where I can imagine reaching the end of it, at which point I’ll cast on my quick little black sweater. And in the meantime, there will be tunics. But already, it’s way easier to get dressed in the morning.

It occurs to me I also apparently mean to only wear one pair of boots this winter: I drew every one of these outfits with the same combat boots. But for a lot of these looks, all that’s needed when transitional season comes is a change of footwear.

So almost two years after tearing it all up (gawd, I just reread that post — wow) I finally feel like I’m getting the upper hand over my closet again.

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PREVIOUSLY in Wardrobe Planning: Winter silhouette 2: Boxy over wide-cropped

Hot Tip: Mark your rows

Hot Tip: Mark your rows

Rather than using a counter or making tick marks in the pattern margins or what have you, many knitters prefer to keep track of their work right in the work. We’ve talked before about using stitch markers to mark your rows or increases/decreases — so you can see at a glance exactly what you did and where — but Jerome Sevilla of Gridjunky has a less jangly method, which he found in a 1977 book called Scandinavian Knitting Designs by Pauline Chatterton. In this method, a length of contrasting scrap yarn is carried behind the work and used to mark every tenth row (or whatever it is you want to keep track of). When you get to the spot you want to mark, simply move the scrap yarn between the needles to the front of the work. Work the next stitch, then move the scrap yarn back to the back. So what you have on the front of the work is a single wrapped stitch each time that’s been done, as seen in Jerome’s photo above, and on the back you have a long vertical float from that stitch up to the next one marked. When you’re all done, just snip the waste yarn and unpick it.

For a steady stream of inspiration from Jerome, follow his blog or Instagram.

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PREVIOUSLY in Hot Tips: Save time at try-on

Photos by Jerome Sevilla, used with permission

Elsewhere

Textile-centric links for your clicking pleasure

So many great links this round! So I’ll get right to it—

– I’m eager to get my hands on The Uppercase Compendium of Craft — and huge congratulations to Felicia Semple on being included!

– Fantastic article about the origin of clothing sizes

– and a great profile on Alabama Chanin

– Would love to know the story behind these wedding cowls (look at the flower girl!)

How to knit a seamed sweater seamlessly

– New Yorker cartoonist on the many uses for a scarf (press play)

– I’m getting a vicarious thrill from watching Fancy Tiger’s Coat Sewalong from the sidelines

– and am totally wowed by Jen Hewett’s Print, Pattern, Sew project outcome

– Interesting thoughts and comments about differing maker philosophies

– A tiny poem for you

Five ways to kick-start your sewing mojo (equally good advice for knitters)

Portrait of a sweater (to end all sweaters)

– And although my job requires me to do both, I think “create more than you consume” is a really worthy goal

IN SHOP NEWS: The grey Field Bag is back in stock! As are the Knitters Graph Paper Journal, Fashionary sketchbooks, matte black mini scissors and the Etta+Billie skin balm in all three scents. Find all that and more at Fringe Supply Co.

Happy weekend, everyone — thank you for reading!

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PREVIOUSLY: Elsewhere

 

New Favorites: Welcome basics, part 1

New Favorites: Welcome basics, part 1

In a world of 235,147 knitting patterns — and that’s just the ones listed on Ravelry at the moment! — it can be shockingly difficult to find good basics. I mutter about this to myself all the time when doing Knit the Look or fielding pattern recommendation requests, where classic shapes and styles are routinely called for and I can’t just say “make it up” all the time! Maybe basic doesn’t stand out enough to sell patterns, who knows, but I’m thrilled that there are a couple of new collections this winter featuring some very good, timeless, hardworking sweaters. The first being yesterday’s Brooklyn Tweed Winter ’16 collection, where among an assortment of lace and such appeared these new classics:

TOP: Cadence by Michele Wang is a mix-and-match pattern for a super basic raglan sweater with textured body and stockinette sleeves that can be done as a crewneck, V or turtleneck, with varying sleeve and body lengths

MIDDLE LEFT: League by Veronik Avery is a great take on the always-popular sporty look that sounds like it involves some fun construction

MIDDLE RIGHT: Tallis by Michele Wang is a nicely-shaped drop-shoulder pullover with a little bit of not-too-decorative stitchwork along the seams (that could also be omitted)

BOTTOM: and Snoqualmie Cardigan, also by Michele Wang, is an iconic cabled shawl-collar cardigan (a worthy follow-up to Bellows)

By the way, for everyone who lamented the difficulty in getting ahold of that Naxos pattern I posted about last spring, Snoqualmie is a great alternative — you could easily knit it with or without the shawl collar.

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PREVIOUSLY in New Favorites: Favorite New Favorites of 2015

Winter silhouette 2: Boxy over wide-cropped

Winter silhouette 2: Boxy over wide-cropped

In a moment of weakness (hypocrisy, really) and desperation for some pants to wear this winter, I broke down and bought a pair of wide-cropped black jeans from J.Crew.* While I’m not happy about their unspecified origins — and can only hope against hope that they were made in a respectable factory — I’m extremely relieved to have them. Other than those black skinny pants from winter silhouette 1, I’m basically down to just two pairs of disturbingly threadbare jeans. (Every time I leave the house in either one of them, I think “today’s the day the crotch rips open in public.”)  So not only were these needed, they are sliding right into my wardrobe the way a hardworking garment should.

As previously discussed, what looks modern to me with regard to this pants shape is a cropped, boxy top layer — either on its own or over a tunic-length top — but I’m also really loving a tucked-in top for the first time in a long while, and that could be a tee or a woven top. So these examples are easy outfits built from the same pieces you’ve seen before — those already in my closet or my current queue: the tunic(s), the woven pullover, the black lopi raglan. Of which, all I’ve accomplished so far is working on a muslin for the woven pullover, which underwent some design changes in the process. More on that front soon!

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(Indispensable Fashionary Panels via Fringe Supply Co., as usual.)

*I also invested in a pair of Point Sur jeans — J.Crew’s new line of jeans made in Los Angeles. I’m thrilled that they’re doing this and want to support it. And while I’ve never spent anywhere near that kind of money on jeans before, I understand the cost and also think it’s a reasonable expenditure, since I’ll wear them a thousand times.

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PREVIOUSLY in Wardrobe Planning: Winter silhouette 1: Short over long over skinny

Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2016: Joseph is everything

Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2016: Joseph is everything

Just as I was about to give up on Pre-Fall 2016 as being devoid of anything truly jaw-dropping, I found myself paging through the Joseph collection, involuntarily muttering “omigod” under my breath with every click. Truly, for me, it’s beyond words. I love the shapes and the tones and the Sinead O’Connor-ish model. I love the impossibly beautiful coat in look 1 , the sporty looks with the silk blouses, the scale of the pockets on everything, the easy layering, and those utterly perfect boots. This makes me want to wear red on red, and I hate red. And of course I love the knits, including the ones pictured above, but really you should go click through the entire collection. At least once.

These are two of the best outfits I’ve ever seen my life:

Best of the Best of Pre-Fall 2016: Joseph is everything