Stadium Mitts

Stadium Mitts free knitting pattern at Fringe Association

The moment I laid eyes on Anna, from Imperial Yarn, I knew I had to have it for the shop. So charming and down to earth, my favorite weight to knit with, great colors, multi-seasonal cotton-and-wool blend, and marled! Once I actually had it in my hands and could knit with it, my mind immediately went to comfort knitting — which for me means fingerless mitts. I love to knit them; I love to wear them. And of all the pairs I’ve knit or own, the ones I wear most are my Super Simple Mitts. I can fold in my fingers, as with any mitts, but thanks to the simple slit thumb opening, I can also pull my thumb in against my palm on a long cold walk without an empty thumb gusset flapping around. And I can even slide them down onto my wrists and out of my way, rather than taking them off. So I decided to revisit and revise my Marl Mitts from last season, and write it out this time.

The end result is cozy and fun, and a little bit sporty. They make me think of evenings at a football game or late-season cookout, and although I knit them in black and natural, I can picture them in all kinds of team colors, making them great gifts as well. As you can see from the photos, I had enough yarn to knit a hat to go with (I’ll post the pattern for that tomorrow) and I still have enough yarn left over for a second pair of mitts or another small project! The full pattern is below, and I hope if you like it you’ll also Like it at Ravelry.

UPDATE: Here’s the beanie pattern: Stadium Hat.

Stadium Mitts detail

Stadium Mitts pattern

For these mitts and the coordinating Stadium Hat you can use two skeins of Anna in any color combination, reversing the MC and CC from the mitts to the hat as shown. You could also omit the stripes, knit them narrower or wider, or whatever your heart desires. The beauty of a project this simple is how easy it is to make it your own!

Construction notes:
The thumbhole portion of these mitts is worked in flat rows (with two stitches of garter at each end), treating the three needles holding live stitches as if they’re a single left-hand needle, and turning the work with each row, before rejoining in the round at the top of the thumb opening. During the stripe portion, carry the non-working yarn up through the rows by laying it over the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric at the beginning of each round. Note that each first round of a color change is a plain knit round — if omitting the stripes, rib every round instead.


  • 60 yards main-color and 20 yards contrast-color Anna or other aran-weight yarn
  • double-pointed needles in size US8/5mm, or size needed to obtain a fabric you like — the stretchy ribbing will fit a wide range of hands regardless of precise gauge
  • tapestry needle

Measurements (after wet blocking):

  • Gauge is 5 stitches and 6.25 rows per inch in rib stitch
  • Circumference (unstretched) is approx 6 inches; length is 7 inches


Using main color (MC) and a US8 needle, CO 32 stitches, then divide onto 3 DPNs (12, 8 and 12 sts). Make sure stitches are not twisted around needles, and join for working in the round. Use your tail (or pin a marker) to keep track of needle 1.

Begin knitting
Rounds 1–6: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 7: (CC) knit all stitches
Round 8: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 9: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 10–11: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 12: (CC) knit all stitches
Rounds 13–16: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round (cut CC, leaving a tail to be woven in)
Round 17: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 18–28: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Piece should now measure approx 4.5 inches, or knit to your liking.

Create thumbhole (continuing with MC)
Row 29: turn work (WS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Row 30: turn work (RS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Rows 31–36: continue alternating previous two rows
Piece should now measure approx 6 inches, or knit to your liking, ending on a RS row.

Rejoin and finish knitting
Round 37: (MC) rejoin in the round; *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Rounds 38–41: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 42: (CC) knit all stitches
Round 43: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round (cut CC, leaving a tail to be woven in)
Round 44: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 45–46: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Bind off loosely in pattern.

Weave in ends. Repeat from beginning for second mitt.


<< Favorite/queue the Stadium Mitts at Ravelry >>


CO = cast on
MC = main color
CC = contrast color
k = knit
p = purl
sts = stitches
WS = wrong side
RS = right side

31 thoughts on “Stadium Mitts

  1. These are great. I too love mitts, and I love the Anna yarn. I have a question about the pattern though. On rows 29-36, where you begin working back and forth, shouldn’t the wrong side rows be P2, K2? Or am I not “seeing” the pattern?

    • Hi, Laura — the rounds end on a p2, so the first WS row begins with a k2. But also note there are two stitches of garter at the ends of each row, creating a garter stitch edge on both sides of the thumb slit. So you’re knitting the first and last two stitches on every row in that section, regardless.

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  7. Would it be possible to use circular kneedles instead? I tried using double pointed and it was just too frustrating and hectic for me. Any tips?

    • To use circulars for small-circumference knitting like this, you’d need to use the Magic Loop method. Which lots of people love.

      You could also just knit them flat and seam them, leaving a gap for the thumb slit. That might be easiest if you’re finding the DP’s frustrating.

    • Hi, Maxine. It can feel really strange the first time you do it — especially the first couple of rows.

      So far, you’ve been working in the round, from the right side only. Starting with row 29, you’ll be working back and forth across the rows, as when knitting flat. So at the end of round 28, put needle 3 (the one you just finished knitting across) back in your left hand with the wrong side of the work facing you and the working yarn hanging from the first stitch on that needle. Now work across that needle and to the end of needle 1. You’ve worked one row flat from the WS. Turn the work again (this time you’ll have needle 1 in your hand with the right side facing you) and work back across all three needles from the right side, that’s row 30. Continue in this way, turning the work at the end of each row just like you’re knitting flat, until you rejoin in the round when indicated.

      Hope that helps!

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  10. I’m having a hard time understanding the thumb hole portion, even with the detailed description you provided in the comment above. Is there a video you can recommend that shows this method? I’m more of a visual learner.

    Thank you!!

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